The Story
This soup is a classic in Oaxaca, needing little more than respect and restraint. The markets there brim with squash, oranges, and the scent of charred poblano, a harmony of sweetness, smoke, and spice that defines the region. I made only small revisions, keeping what has always worked. A touch of chocolate at the end brings it full circle, proof that some traditions arrive already perfect.
Ingredients
2 lb butternut squash, peeled, cleaned, and diced into 2-inch pieces
2 medium white onions, peeled and quartered
5 garlic cloves
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 orange, halved
¼ cup light brown sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup orange juice
3 whole allspice berries
5 whole black peppercorns
2 teaspoons salt
3 fresh thyme sprigs
2 poblano chile peppers, dry roasted, stemmed, seeded, and peeled
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
2 cups heavy cream
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg, plus more for garnish
Grated Mexican chocolate, for garnish
Preparation
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
In a large roasting pan, combine the squash, onions, garlic, cinnamon, orange halves, brown sugar, olive oil, orange juice, allspice berries, peppercorns, and salt. Toss well to coat.
Top with thyme sprigs and cover tightly with two layers of foil. Roast for 1 hour, until the squash is fork-tender.
Remove from the oven and discard the orange halves and thyme sprigs.
Puree the roasted mixture in a blender or with an immersion blender, adding the roasted poblanos and broth. Blend until very smooth.
Pour the puree into a large stockpot. Stir in the cream and nutmeg.
Simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes, allowing the flavors to deepen. Season with additional salt if needed.
Ladle into bowls and finish with grated chocolate and a touch of nutmeg.
Notes From the Road
In Oaxaca, sweetness is never just sweetness. It’s grounded in spice and memory woven through with warmth. The scent of this soup always takes me back to evenings when the markets glowed orange with late sun, and cooks balanced sugar, smoke, and citrus with quiet confidence. This dish carries that rhythm: steady, generous, unforgettable.
Serving and Pairing
Serve with a chilled glass of dry sherry or a smoky mezcal. Best enjoyed slowly, with warm bread and candlelight when the air outside begins to cool and you want to taste something that still holds the sun.