The Story
The first time I tasted tamales I was young and didn’t realize food could feel like that. Warm corn masa holding smoky red chile pork that felt like comfort and discovery in the same bite. Tamales are simple at their core, made of masa, filling, and corn husks, yet they carry generations of memory.
Once you learn the rhythm of spreading, filling, and wrapping, it becomes second nature. The reward is worth it. The masa turns tender and slightly sweet, the pork stays rich and full of flavor, and by the next morning someone is always eating one cold from the fridge.
Ingredients
RED CHILE PORK FILLING
5 lb (2.3 kg) pork shoulder
1 tbsp (15 ml) canola oil, plus more for coating pork
4 tbsp (60 g) plus 1 tsp salt
2 tbsp (15 g) chipotle powder
14 dried guajillo chiles, seeded and stemmed
6 garlic cloves
1 tsp ground cumin
3 cups (700 ml) water
TAMALE DOUGH
3½ cups (596 g) masa harina
2¼ cups (532 ml) warm water
10 oz (284 g) lard or vegetable shortening
1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder
1½ cups (355 ml) chicken or vegetable broth
2 tsp (10 g) salt
32 dried corn husks
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Bamboo steamer or steamer tray for your stockpot
Preparation
RED CHILE PORK TAMALE FILLING
Preheat the oven to 275°F (135°C).
Thoroughly rinse the pork shoulder with cool water and pat dry with a clean paper towel.
Rub all sides of the pork shoulder with canola oil.
Combine 4 tablespoons (60 g) of the salt with the chipotle powder and rub the mixture on the pork, covering all surfaces.
Set aside and let the pork rest at room temperature for 1 hour, but no longer.
Resting longer than 1 hour will cause the salt to pull the moisture from the meat and make the pork tough.
After resting, place the pork in a deep roasting pan with the fat side down.
Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid or double layer of aluminum foil.
Place the pan in the preheated oven and cook for approximately 3½–4 hours, until the pork falls apart when pressed with the back of a fork and reaches an internal temperature of 195°F (91°C).
Remove from the oven and let rest (covered) for 30 minutes.
Using two forks, pull the pork into long strands.
Resist the temptation to chop the pork into chunks.
Strain the broth and reserve 4 cups (946 ml) of the pan drippings.
Meanwhile, heat a medium-size cast-iron skillet or heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium-high heat.
Once the pan is hot, cook the chiles for approximately 30 seconds per side, until they’re slightly toasty.
Be careful not to over-toast the chiles and allow them to turn black, as this will make the sauce bitter.
Remove the toasted chiles from the pan and place in a bowl.
Cover and completely submerge the chiles with hot water and set aside for 30 minutes to rehydrate.
After 30 minutes, remove the rehydrated chiles from the water with a slotted spoon and place in a blender.
Discard the soaking liquid.
Add the garlic, cumin, remaining 1 teaspoon salt and water to the blender.
Puree until the mixture forms a smooth paste.
Heat the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) canola oil in a heavy, large stockpot over medium-high heat.
When the oil is very hot and begins to shimmer, pour the red chile sauce into the pan and stir immediately.
Be careful, as the sauce will splatter.
Fry the sauce for 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens and begins to darken.
Add the reserved 4 cups (946 ml) of pork drippings and the pulled pork.
Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
Set aside to cool slightly before preparing the tamales.
TAMALE DOUGH
In a large bowl or the bowl of stand mixer, blend the masa harina with the warm water.
Stir the mixture thoroughly to create a solid ball of rehydrated masa.
Add the lard, baking powder, stock and salt, whisking thoroughly. If you are using a mixer, blend on medium speed for approximately 5 minutes.
Set the mixture aside until ready to assemble the tamales.
ASSEMBLING THE TAMALES
Fill a large stockpot one-quarter of the way full with warm water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Roughly separate the corn husks and place in a large bowl or your sink and completely submerge in warm water.
Allow the husks to soak for at least 30 minutes until they become relatively soft and pliable.
Remove the husks from the water, separate completely and pat dry with a clean paper towel.
Prepare the ties for your tamales by tearing several of the husks into ½ inch (1.3 cm)-wide strips until you have 24 strips.
Gently tie a knot at the narrow end of the strip and tear the opposite end to double the strip length to about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long.
Continue this step for all of the strips and set aside.
Place a large corn husk on a clean flat surface with the shortest side facing you.
Spoon approximately ¼ cup (60 g) of masa dough on the upper center of the husk and, using a butter knife or the back of the spoon, spread into a square shape across the width of the husk to approximately ¼ inch (6 mm) thick.
Be sure to leave approximately ½ inch (13 mm) on the top and sides of the husks clean to allow for easier rolling.
Spoon approximately 2 tablespoons (30 g) of pork mixture in an even line along the center of the masa and gently fold the husk over widthwise to completely encase the filling and form a tight tube.
Fold the bottom of the husk up toward the center of the tamale and tie with the prepared strip of corn husks.
Be sure to leave the top of the husks open.
Repeat the process with the remaining corn husks and masa dough.
Line a steamer basket with moistened corn husks.
Place the prepared tamales upright with the open tops facing up in the steamer basket and top with additional corn husks.
Cover the steamer basket with a tight-fitting lid and place on top of the stockpot with the boiling water and steam for 1 hour, until the batter separates easily from the husks.
Turn off the heat and allow the tamales to rest in the basket for 30 minutes until they begin to firm up before eating.
Note:
When heating the water to cook the tamales, drop a clean coin into the boiling water.
As the water boils, the coin will rattle, letting you know that the water has not boiled dry.
If the coin stops rattling, you know that it is time to add more water.